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. Mapuche vocabulary
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EXCURSIONS, SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES, NEUQUÉN, Argentina.

 

Popular Library "9 de Julio"

With a great variety of Patagonian literature which could make easier to understand the geography, history and how to take advantage of your visit.

 

City Tour on the first floor

In a real London bus, bought at the Car Museum and preserved as the original, you can visit the whole city, departing from San Martin square.

 

Lacar lake shore

Lacar lake shore. Photo Hermosilla

Lacar lake shore

At the end of San Martin st., you'll get the lake's shore. From there you can watch the head of the lake, Comandante Díaz hill (on the left) and Curruhuinca hill (on the right), whose rocky end point closes the sight of the lake on the SW.
On the right side of the shore, a large beach. From the port depart boats to Quila Quina and Hua Hum. There and at the nautical club as well are rented canoes and water cycles in summer.

 

Lanin National Park headquarter

The old building lies on San Martín square, of typical Andean architecture, designed by Alejandro Bustillo. It is surrounded by a garden with many samples of native trees and bushes, and interpretative panels.
The new one is located on Perito Moreno street and Elordi street. There is a visitor center and the administrative offices of the park. There you can get information of the park, maps and brochure about other protected areas.

 

Mirador del Centenario

Centenario lookout. Photo Santiago Gaudio

Centenario lookout

Two hours walking, twenty minutes by car(both ways).
It is in the local forestall reserve, created on the first century of the city. Take the road that leads up to the Sol hotel and 100m more; afterwards, a signalled detour. It's a place with many poplars, inside a forest of cypresses, suitable for pic nic. A large watching balcony allows you to take good photographs of the town surrounded by mountains, the lake and the trees grappled to the rocks, under the brightness of the Andean range. If you are in a car, you can join this with a visit to the Arrayán lookout, 4 km more.

 

Local Museum Primeros Pobladores (First settlers)

A historical outing, short but rich, will instruct you about the ultimate centuries in the zone. It's a building made on 1931, which was the see of the local government of San Martín de los Andes, before the town had municipality. It lies between the actual Municipality and the Tourism office, and has three showrooms:
one of archeology, one about ski and another of architecture patrimony. Schedule at the museum and tourism office.
Beside the museum is the shop of "Artesanías Neuquinas" (Neuquén handcraft). From Monday to Friday in the mornings they use to have a mapuche knitter with her vertical loom . interesting to watch her working.

 

Fish trap on Pocahullo stream

Fish trap on Pocahullo stream

Fish trap on Pocahullo stream

Capture and reproduction station of fishes for Lácar basin.
It is located at the mouth of the stream, 300 m from the port. There, the trouts are caught when they try to go up the stream to spawn. That is before (of course) they could be caught by furtive fishermen.
At the station, the trout spawns and it is thrown back to the lake. After been born, the "alevines" are sowed. Inaugurated on july 2000, this trap is one of four of this type around the World. The other three are in Japan.
Guided visits of 1 hour.

 

Arrayán Lookout

Attractions: panoramic views of Lácar lake, surrounding mountains and town.
Distance: 5 km.
Duration: 4 hs both ways on foot - 1/2 hour by car.
Season: all year
A great view from Comandante Díaz hill showing Lácar lake and the city, very close to downtown. From the quay, ending San Martín st, turn on your left. 400 m more, a detour: take the one which goes up to the Sol hotel, left side. The right one is the famous "seven lakes road" (described ahead).
The old Sol de los Andes hotel is today the head office of a private center of high studies and it will be also a school-hotel. It's an ascending road. However you'll enjoy it watching the city. Take notice that is a quite transited road. After 2 km you'll get the hotel. Continue along the road. 100 m more it turns dirt, curving to the right. Cypresses are flanking your way for 4 km. An advice: the excursion deserves the best photography. It would be better to go in the morning, because in the afternoon the sun will be in front of you, although the late afternoon is impressive. The landscape offers a beautiful view, where you can see the whole lake while standing on wooden points of view. Very near, another attraction: a tea house which gave its name to the place. With its walls full of old photos and history, it offers lunch and dinner - besides the exotic teas and delicious cakes-, everything served on a deck or behind big windows, so to enjoy the scene too.
If you wish, you can continue this road (the old one to Seven lakes) by car. Andean Cypresses woods and nice views accompany the way to reach R 234 (the new one). Turning to the right, you will return to the town. This lap is also suitable for mountain bike.

Bandurrias lookout

Bandurrias lookout. Photo: Ulises

Bandurrias lookout

Attractions: Patagonian andean forest, panoramic views of the town, mountains and the whole lake.
Distance: 2 km on foot from Juez del Valle st.
Difficulty: medium- low. The slope is not very strong but is constant.
Duration: 1- 2 hs.
Season: all year.
The path starts from downtown; it's one of the nearest and prettiest walks. The Bandurrias are migratory birds which come to the zone when summer is beginning. To reach the path, cross Pocahullo stream on Juez del Valle bridge and turn to the left. You will reach a gate which reminds that you will enter mapuche territory. The path goes under old Andean cypresses, and also "roble pellin" and "radal" in humid and shady zones. You would also find shrubs like "calafate", "michay" and flowers, like "mutisia" and "amancay", mixed with introduced plants (retama, rosa mosqueta).
The place is very visited by tourists and local people, and as it was never well signalled, there are many detours. To avoid getting lost, it's better to take always the paths on the right. In some rocky places, on left side, you have partial views of the city and lake shore. During the walk, it worth while to make silence for a while, just to enjoy the forest and its colors, sounds and fragrance.
Reaching the crossing ways, where you'll find the vehicle road, you'll see another gate. In summer, mapuche people charge a low rate. From that place, you can go down to a little shore called "La islita". Following the road to the lookout, there are 400 m to reach the summit. First, you will observe the city and "vega". You can appreciate the predominating cypresses on the opposite sunniest hillsides.
Finally you will get the main lookout, of great visual ampleness: from that 250m over lake level, you can see the true magnitude of Lacar and Nonthue lakes, which drain into the Pacific ocean along Hua Hum river. From this point of view you can manage to discover other attractions: "Abanico" (fan) hill, in front of you; Catritre beach; and Quila Quina village. On the left, Chapelco hill.
Another option to get the lookout is to go by car on R 48 up to the second gate mentioned. It is not usually in good conditions, but if you like walking, you can leave the car by the park ranger's house and keep walking. You have 4 km in a road which always goes on the same level, so there's no difficulty. Near the park ranger there is a pic nic area, among oaks (roble pellin) and with the landscape of the town. This option allows appreciating beautiful and old samples of native forest, so close to the city. As it is a shady place, in summer is very nice for walking, riding horses or cycling, and in autumn you'll be shocked by the colors of different plants.

Catritre beach

Only 5 km from San Martín, taking Seven lakes route and a descending road in front of Paihuen's entrance. The place has a camping, restaurant-bar, and a very sunny beach. In summer it is usually full occupied, as it is close to the town and because of its commodities. If you go only for spending a day, you will pay a rate if you go down by car; you can avoid it if you park a short distance above the camping. There is a bus from San Martin. Consult schedule.
Beside Catritre camping, crossing Pil Pil stream, lies Lolen camping, which belongs to the Curruhuinca community. It offers basic commodities, wide plots for the tent and also a tea house close to Abanico hill. They can tell you about interesting walks inside their territory, as the one to Quila Quina stream water fall.

 

Quila Quina

Quila Quila. Photo: C. Severa

Quila Quina Village

Attractions: native and exotic plants, beaches, cascade, mapuche community.
Distance: 36 km both ways.
Duration: 1/2 day at least.
Season: all year.
It lies in the middle of Mapuche territory. The place has a long shore with sunny beaches. To reach it you must take R 234. 6 km more, turn to your right and drive 12 km. You will surround Abanico hill, among beautiful roble pellin and andean cypress trees. You will also see sheeps and cows grazing, and typical mapuche wooden houses. Sometimes in winter the road is closed by the snow and the only way to get the village is by boat. Once in Quila Quina, you'll see another type of houses. They are luxurious private summer houses. You will probably not understand how those opposite cultures manage to live together. By the quay, there is a restaurant and rental equipment for nautical activities. Walking inside the village and beside the beaches you will see old samples of roble pellin and pataguas (related with the myrtle), with their roots under the water. There is a camping crossing Grande stream, with a capacity of 40 tents, commodities, bar and a storehouse. Before crossing the bridge, on the left, there are pic nic and barbacue places. Quila Quina hides other attractions, as pictographs, Grande water fall, and Tren Tren hill lookout, for whose visit you shall consult mapuche guides. To get Escondido Lake by horse or walking around 6 hours, consult the park ranger
Between Puntilla beach and the bridge, you can visit the interpretative path "El Cipresal", of almost 1 km. If you wish, you can leave your car in San Martin and and get the village sailing on an excursion boat.

Quila Quina - Mapuche community

An interesting possibility of this place is to get in touch with a different culture. Every time you hear about the life together between mapuches and western people, it reports about a masterful culture above another submited. (See A little about history). The relationship is not easy, as started with an unfortunate beginning. Several mapuche communities (mapu=land; che=people) are most settled inside Lanin National Park (Aigo and Salazar in Rucachoroi; Cañicul and Raquithué by Huechulafquen lake; Curruhuinca and Cayún by Lácar lake), although there are another ones in San Martin de los Andes common (Vera) and in other places of north Patagonia.

Lolog lake

Attractives: beaches and rustic pic nic places. Thermal baths if you go to Curruhue lakes (see Junin de los Andes)
Distance: 24 km , both ways
24 km more (both ways), to reach Port Arturo.
Duration: 1/2 day at least.
Season: all year. (winter conditional to Curruhue)
Excellent beaches near the city, plenty of sun and wide views to the lake. Ideal for spending the whole day. From SM de los Andes to Junin de los Andes, take de second detour to the left side. The road goes through an army base (4th Regimiento de Caballería), the only in the country that still use horses as locomotion means. After the first 3 km, a section of closed curves begins. There you will appreciate the landscape of the city, spread along the valley. This road also leads to Curruhué lake and Lahuen Có thermal place.
Reaching the lake, the road to the left goes to the inhabited zone and the main beach: Playa Bonita. There also are boats.
If you prefer larger beaches, take the road to the right and cross the bridge over Quilquihue stream. The zone is very windy because of its orientation, but there are many places suitable for pic nic. (be careful with the fire and the garbage).
10 Km. ahead the bridge and always on the left, starts the track to Port Arturo, and 4 km more you'll get the quay and the park ranger. At Port Arturo, there is a rustic camping. From this point starts the trekking to Aunquinco valley
A channel carries water from Quilquihue stream to the SMA Potable water Cooperative filters.

 

Graeff

 Graeff. Photo Santiago Gaudio

Chapelco

Attractives: panoramic views, winter and summer sports.
Distance: 36 km both ways.
Duration: half day at least.
Season: all year. Ski from june to october.
The main winter tourist center in the province has a good access, and offers activities for the summer too. You shall take RN 234 (known as "Seven lakes road"), which starts by Lácar lake. From there, drive for 15 Km. In the forest you will see the andean cypress mixed with groups of roble pellín, inside Curruhuinca mapuche community's land. The road continues ascending, as it gets to 1.250 m.s.n.m. The detour to Chapelco, on the left by RP 19, is signalled. You'll arrive at the ski center after 5 Km.
Chapelco, in high season, has 0,5 m of snow at the base, and almost 5.000 daily visitors.

Chapelco in summer

It's becoming the first natural park in Patagonia, for enjoying adventure tourism. An adventure passport will allow you to learn how to go on a mountain bike, do trekking along trails inside centenary woods, practise climbing, archery, horse ridings, 4x4 excursions, outings in four wheel motorcycle, sliding along the ski trails in amusing toboggan, and other activities surrounded by the magnificent nature offered by Chapelco.
Climb to the top by the lift you prefer and, if you dare to walk up to the summit (the Filo (1.970 m.s.n.m.), if it's not cloudy, you could see very far, even the Villarrica volcano in Chile, smoking.
To return to San Martín by other way, go down by Puente Blanco and, if you have time, visit Arrayán's lookout.

Las Pendientes

A close andean town in Chapelco mountain, at 1.400 m.o.s.l.), with its own ski trails and a whole new offer for lodging in winter and summer.

Hua Hum

Hua Hum. Photo: Hermosilla

Yuco - Hua Hum (Lacar - Nonthue lakes)

Attractives: beaches, trekking paths, valdivian forest, Chachín water fall, Queñi lake and Pucará forest satation; international pass.
Distance: 94 km both ways.
By lake: 2 horas each way navigating.
Duration: whole day. If you choose to stay in one of the recreational areas, half a day
Season: spring, summer, autumn; winter conditional. (there's no bridge over Queñi stream).
This tour may yo go incide the very Herat of the abdeab forest and go across a beautiful pass towards Chile, admiring the specimens of the valdivian forest, favored by the high amount of precipitation in the frontier zone. There are different options, inviting you to a whole visit into the Lacar basin as much as staying in any of its recreational areas or camping. There are also many trekking trails around the lake.
Starting from San Martín de los Andes, take the route towards Junin de los Andes. The first detour on the left is RP 48 to Hua Hum. As almost every road in the National Park, this is dirt but in good condition. 3km more, you have a natural balcony, where you can observe and make photographs of the city. Further it appears the detour to Bandurrias lookout. By the main road, you will notice how the forest begins to get bigger and forms a natural túnel.
10 km further,in front of Trompul rock, you'll see the signal for the entrance to the Colarado volcano's path, 1.776 m. o.s.l. The views during the ascense and the spectacular landscape from the summit really worth while. The path, well signalled, climbs winding along the edge of a gully, showing the forest's variation because of the altitude. Getting out of the forest's limit, there rises the reddish cone due to the enormous quantity of porous, rough and red volcanic rocks that form the summit.

Yuco

Alter 30km, on the left, you'll find Yuco Recreational area, a rocky peninsula, whose small bays include sand or stony beaches, surrounded by a dense forest of roble pellin, coihue and caña colihue. There's a pic nic area and the Park ranger house. In front of the entrance, across the road, starts the path to Las Corinas lagoons where you can do trekking and bird watching. The path is not very well signalled, you have to notify the park ranger if you decide to visit it. Further and near Yuco, you'll find the entrance to Quechuquina estate, which has got a nice tea house in summer.

Nonthue - Hua Hum

Always on R 48, 45 km from San Martin, you will see a grazing plain, where there is an educational camping for schools and an organized camping, with store and facilities, spread along the shore. The camping places are located among the vegetation: roble pellin, ñire, caña colihue and pataguas. There's a rocky mass on the shore, which partially closes the Lacar lake, and on the west side begins to be named Nonthue. From this camping area you can do walking, as in the path to Los Saltitos waterfall, or high trekking to Mallo hill.
When you reach Hua Hum, an old frontier spot, you'll find an inn by the quay, in a nice place with beach, and the beginning of Hua Hum river (which drains Lacar and Nonthue lake to the Pacific). Before crossing the bridge, you'll see a signalled path on the right, along the river. In summer, some tourist agencies of San Martin offer rafting on this river; it's of slow level but with amazing views of the forest just between Argentina and Chile.

Chachin water fall

Walking to this beautiful water fall is an excursion included in the navigation tour from San Martín's quay, but it is also accessible by car, along R 48 and across Hua Hum bridge. Follow the first detour on the left, towards another bridge over Chachin stream. Leave the car here, before crossing it, and go on by foot along the path on the right. You'll find the panel for the starting of an interpretative path. Once at the lookout, some benches will invite you to rest with hearing the sound of this fall of emerald green reflections.
From Chachin's bridge, towards the east, you can go on by car, up to Pucará, and old forestall station, the camping by the lake and the starting of Ruca Ñire's path, of 4 km.

Queñi lake:

Cross the bridge over Hua Hum river. On the left, a rustic camping; on the right, the park ranger; you can ask him about the condition of the roads, not for any vehicle.. After a while, it's a detour to the right, it leads to Queñi lake. It's a small one, extended from north to south, and drains to the Lacar by Chachin stream. 8 km more and you reach Queñi stream; if its volume is high, it would be difficult to cross it, as there is no bridge. You can go on by foot, usually there are some thick branches crossed over the stream. Further on, you'll find a rustic camping. There starts a 4km path along the lake, which allows you to know a sample of the valdivian forest and, at the end, a thermal bath. This zone limits with Lanin NP strict reserve.

Hua Hum international pass

You have to do the procedure at the custom and afterwards at the gendarmería post. (See Papers for crossing the frontier). Hua Hum is the only pass opened the whole year, as it's only 625 m.o.s.l. In the Chilean side, you have to cross Pirehueico lake by a modern ferryboat. It's an interesting trip along a lake originated by the volcanism, which closed the Pirehueico valley hundreds years ago. On the volcanic rocks there is the Huilo Huilo water fall.

Chilean side

At Pirehueico port, there's a storehouse, cabins and canopy
You can go by this pass and return on the same day. After Pto. Fuy - you can:
a) Return by Liquiñe - Carirriñe pass to Junín/San Martín. There are thermal baths at Liquiñe and Epulafquen. Check that Carirriñe is open.
b) From Liquiñe go on towards Coñaripe (thermal baths)-Lican Ray-Villarrica-Pucón, returning by Tromen pass.
c) Panguipulli - Panamerican route - Temuco, Valdivia or Llanquihue lake - Puerto Varas-Puerto Montt.

Paso Córdoba

Paso Córdoba. Photo: Lisandro Santos, San Martín de los Andes

Paso Córdoba (Meliquina lake - Filo Hua Hum)

Attractives: lakes, vegetation transition, plantations, geomorphology.
Distance: 30 km to Meliquina - 60 km to Filo Hua Hum - 85 km to Paso Córdoba.
Duration: half day.
Season: four seasons - winter conditional
This outing can be done just to the lake or as a part of the tour towards Traful village, or by RN 237, to Bariloche. Gas station at Confluencia.
From San Martín, take 7 Lakes road. After 28km, on the left dirt RP 63 to Meliquina and Barloche by P° Córdoba. On the left, you'll see Parque Diana hunting preserve. By Meliquina lake, beaches and pic nic areas. You will notice the change of the vegetation: it turned to be bushes. After the bridge, there's a small village, with weekend houses and few restaurants.
If you go to Paso Córdoba, you'll go across pine plantations: Oregón, Ponderosa and Murrayana.

Detour to Filo Hua Hum lake

Just after the bridge over Filo Hua Hum stream, you'll find a road on the right (RP 64) which leads to the lake. You`ll enter Tres Lagos estate. Rustic Camping.
If you continue along RP 63, you`ll know an old cave called Ruca Cura (Stony house), inhabited 10.000 years ago by the old native people. The road by Pº Córdoba continue very winding. On both sides there are big rocky masses, eroded by wind and rain. Using the imagination, you could see castles an other things.

Falkner lake

Falkner lake. Photo: Ulises

 

Seven Lakes

Attractives: 7 lakes, cascades, beaches, vegetation, fauna, access to V.Traful, V.La Angostura and S.C.de Bariloche.
Distance: 110 km .
Duration: whole day
Season: four seasons- winter conditional
A well known tour, it joins seven lakes in 110 Km., besides panoramic lookouts and the magnificent andean forest. It's being paved since several years. The San Martín de los Andes/Lago Villarino (50 Km.) lenght is finished. From the crossroads with R 231 to Villa La Angostura (15 Km.), is also paved. The rest makes you go slowly. After starting, you will find the detour to Meliquina, then Machonico lake and the detour to Hermoso lake, with sunny beaches and camping. Again on the main road, on the right, Vuliñanco water fall.
Further on, it will appear two lakes joined by a small stream: Falkner and Villarino.
Ending the tour, a new crossroads with RN 231. On the right, the way to Puyehue international pass, towards Osorno and Panamerican route. Going on towards Villa La Angostura, you will see Nahuel Huapi lake, the biggest one. This Andean village has all necessary services and tourist structure, and deserves more than a day to be enjoyed. From there you have 80 km to Bariloche, among curves and woods, panoramic views and snowy mountains, where mount Tronador stands out with its high glaciers.

Detour to Espejo Chico lake

From Correntoso lake, on the left and 300 m before reaching Ruca Malén (an abandoned inn),2.000 m. There is a camping.

 

Argentina: Norte Neuquino, Caviahue - Copahue, Villa Pehuenia, Aluminé,

Junín de los Andes, San Martín de los AndesVilla Traful, Villa La Angostura,

Bariloche, El Bolsón, Lago Puelo, El Hoyo, Esquel, Trevelin.

Chile: Pucón, Villarrica, Temuco, Valdivia, Puerto Montt - Puerto Varas.

North Patagonia - Lake Region Tourist Guide

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